TOUR 6

The Lolo Pass to Kamiah Loop

From Lolo Pass at the Idaho/Montana border to Kamiah, U.S. 12 closely follows the curves of the Lochsa and Clearwater Rivers. The pristine beauty of these waterways have earned them recognition as National Wild and Scenic Rivers. Vigorous trout thrive in the cold, clear waters and you have a good chance of seeing some elk, moose or deer along the riverbanks. Plenty of forested campgrounds and picnic sites are available throughout the area. America's largest wilderness, the vast Selway-Bitterroot, is just south of U.S. 12. Tranquil wilderness lades and rivers only a few miles from the highway invite exploration by hikers and horseback riders. You may want to make arrangements for one of the hunting or fishing trips offered by many experienced outfitters. Heavy snowfall blankets Lolo Pass for more than six months each year. During this time, packed trails and snow-covered mountain meadows invite snowmobilers to enjoy the winter landscape while cross-country skiers glide through the forest on beautifully groomed ski trails. 

The Lolo Pass Visitor Center is open in the winter to serve as a comfortable warming lodge. U.S. 12 west descends the steep slope of the Bitterroot Mountains to the DeVoto Memorial Cedar Grove, near the bottom of the grade. This majestic stand of trees more than five-hundred years old is dedicated to Bernard DeVoto, a Pulizer Prize winning historian and conservationist. 

Near the Powell Ranger Station on U.S. 12, you can join the historic Lewis and Clark Trail. This is the Nez Perce route through the mountains that Lewis and Clark followed when they entered Idaho in 1805. In the 1930's, the Forest Service constructed the Lewis and Clark Trail Road, a dirt road that closely follows the expedition's route across Idaho. From this rough mountain roadway you can plan a hike that follows in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark. During the summer months, the Lewis and Clark Trail Road is accessible from several locations off U.S. 12. It ends up in Weippe. Be sure to stop at the Lochsa Lodge, an old hunting cabin transformed into a visitors center. Cabins, gas, food and drink are available. The last for 65 miles. 

As you continue west on U.S. 12, the churning waters of the Lochsa, a Nez Perce word meaning "rough water," come into view. The clear pools of the upper Lochsa have gained national recognition for prime fly-fishing. Special catch-and-release regulations ensure anglers of a continuous supply of large cutthroat trout. Be sure to keep your camera ready because you might spot some mountain goats grazing on the rocky cliffs high above the roadway. The unique geologic features in this part of Idaho create natural hot springs that are an inviting diversion. Most are within a one-mile hike of the highway such as the Colgate Licks Hot Springs where natural salt licks attract a variety of wildlife. 

Soon you will arrive at the Lochsa Historic Ranger Station. Built in the early 1920's, these old log structures have been restored as an example of early life in the Forest Service. Further west, at the community of Lowell, the wild and scenic Selway River merges with the Lochsa to create the Clearwater River. From here you can take the Selway River Road upriver twenty-two miles to the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness boundary. Highlights on the Selway Road are the historic O'Hara House built in 1910 and Selway Falls, near the road's end. Side roads lead to the high mountain areas of Big Fog Saddle and Clearwater Ridge. 

Returning to Highway 12, you're now following the Clearwater River, which is just right for a relaxing float trip on warm summer days. The sandy beaches invite you to stop for a picnic and take time to build a sand castle. 

Near the junction of Highways 12 and 13, the Kooskia National Fish Hatchery raises more than one-million salmon each year. Self-guiding displays illustrate the operation of the hatchery and the life cycle of Pacific Salmon. A short distance away, the Kooskia Ranger Station has a small information center. Ocean-going steelhead, a close relative of salmon, have been returning to the Clearwater River in record Numbers each year. Small steelhead weigh about eight pounds; larger ones exceed twenty pounds. Steelhead are heavily concentrated in the Clearwater during the fall and winter. 

Near Kamiah, several Nez Perce National Park sites offer interesting glimpses of the past. One of the oldest churches in Idaho, built by the Nez Perce in 1873, is a few miles east of Kamiah on U.S. 12. The 1874 McBeth House is across the highway from the church. Closer to town is "The Heart of the Monster," a volcanic outcropping known as "The Place of Beginning" in Nez Perce mythology. An audio station recounts the legendary battle between the monster and Coyote that led to the creation of the Nee-Mee-Poo, the Nez Perce People. 

On the western edge of Kamiah, an historical marker indicates the spot where Lewis and Clark camped in the spring of 1806. While in Kamiah, be sure to visit Main Street, recently restored to its original Victorian era. In the friendly spirit of the old west, Kamiah extends an annual invitation for everyone to attend their September Barbecue Days. For fifty years the highlight of the celebration has been a free, western-style barbecue. 

The heritage of the Nez Perce is commemorated each May at the Ma'Alyma Root Feast and Pow Wow. Colorful native American dancing is the focus of the Chief Looking Glass Festival in August. The Kamiah Chamber of Commerce of the Kamiah Ranger Station can give you detailed travel information on any of these events and places. 

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